In-Depth From the Science of Skincare Summit

The 2024 Science of Skincare Summit this past November again positioned itself as a pivotal event in the dermatology field, offering groundbreaking insights into the intersection of innovation, consumer trends, and evidence-based skincare. From preventative anti-aging strategies to the burgeoning influence of digital platforms in skincare education, the recent summit showcased a dynamic range of advancements shaping the industry.

Adam Ricciardone and Drs. Patricia Farris and Doris Day delved into topics ranging from the role of nutraceuticals in skin health to the integration of artificial intelligence (AI) and sustainable practices in product development. Here’s an in-depth look at the trends and key takeaways presented at the summit.

The Next Wave: Skincare Trends Heading Into 2025

Adam Ricciardone, Global Head of R&D at Kenvue, took center stage to unveil Skincare Trends 2024. This presentation underscored the seismic shifts in consumer behavior, innovative product development, and the powerful blend of dermatology with social influence. As skincare becomes an increasingly essential part of self-care, here are the standout trends shaping the future of skin health and beauty.

The Rise of Preventative and Pre-Aging Skincare

Prevention isn’t just a buzzword; it’s the new foundation of skincare. With aging populations and the rapid spread of anti-aging awareness, the focus has shifted from merely treating signs of aging to preempting them. Ricciardone highlighted that individuals are starting their anti-aging regimens as early as their mid-20s—a phenomenon dubbed “27 is the new 47.” This trend is driven by Millennials’ and Gen Z’s commitment to wellness routines that combat “inflammaging,” a concept that blends inflammation with aging as a central skin concern.

What does this mean for the future? Skincare products that emphasize gentle, hydrating, and science-backed ingredients such as hyaluronic acid, niacinamide, and retinol will continue to dominate. Consumers will seek out products with dermatology-grade reputations, ensuring their pre-emptive efforts are supported by credible science.

The Influence of Dermfluencers: Credibility in the Digital Age

Social media’s influence on skincare has been undeniable but the trend has matured beyond mere product endorsements. Ricciardone noted the rise of “dermfluencers”—board-certified dermatologists who provide engaging, evidence-based skincare advice. This is more than a passing trend; with hashtags such as #skinfluencer amassing millions of posts, the role of trusted experts in shaping consumer choices is more crucial than ever.

Consumers are hungry for information that cuts through the noise, which positions medical professionals as beacons of reliable advice. This wave of derm-led content is reinforcing consumer trust, dispelling myths, and clarifying claims around trendy ingredients. Expect platforms to spotlight these knowledgeable voices more prominently as skincare education becomes a core consumer demand. 

MORE FROM THE SUMMIT

Sunification: Skincare’s Golden Hour

The once-seasonal focus on sun protection has now evolved into a year-round essential. Dr. Ricciardone introduced the concept of “sunification”—where sun protection becomes seamlessly integrated into daily skincare, and not just for UV protection but for holistic environmental defense. With the suncare market projected to soar to $18.5 billion globally by 2032,1 innovations that combine high SPF with skincare benefits such as hydration, oil control, and anti-aging properties are on the rise.

What’s trending in formulations? Consumers are now prioritizing products that don’t leave a white cast, are fast-absorbing, and cater to various skin types, including sensitive and acne-prone skin. Additionally, there’s an increasing shift toward clean, sustainable, and reef-safe formulations. With concerns about blue light and pollution, skincare that provides multi-faceted protection will see sustained interest.

The New Era of Skincare: What Lies Ahead

Dr. Ricciardone’s presentation concluded on an optimistic note: Going into 2025, consumers have truly embraced what he called their “skincare era.” This movement toward education and proactive skin health sets the stage for this year and beyond, where advancements will be turbocharged by digital and AI-driven skincare solutions. With consumer expectations higher than ever, brands that merge credibility, advanced technology, and clean, effective formulations are positioned to lead the pack.

The takeaway for dermatologists and industry leaders: Prevention, credibility, and comprehensive sun care are the keystones of modern skincare. As these trends continue to shape the landscape, the dermatology community will play an integral role in bridging the gap between clinical expertise and consumer enthusiasm. Now more than ever, dermatologists are not just practitioners but key players in educating the public and driving innovation in skincare.

One area to keep an eye on in the coming year is the integration of AI and personalization redefining the way we approach skin health. For now, it’s time to embrace this skin-forward era, one evidence-based product at a time.

Patricia Farris, MD:  Nutraceuticals for Hair Growth 

Dr. Patricia Farris from Tulane University delivered an enlightening lecture titled Nutraceuticals for Hair Loss: What Works and What Doesn’t? Dr. Farris’s talk provided an evidence-based exploration of nutraceuticals for hair growth, focusing on their efficacy, limitations, and potential as alternative or complementary treatments to conventional options.

The Growing Demand for Nutraceuticals

Dr. Farris opened by addressing the significant prevalence of hair loss: 25% of men start showing early signs by age 30, with half experiencing hair loss by age 50. Alarmingly, 50% of all women face hair loss challenges at some point. While traditional treatments such as topical and oral minoxidil, anti-androgens, platelet-rich plasma (PRP), and hair transplants are available, they can be associated with side effects or cumbersome application processes, pushing consumers to seek alternatives such as nutraceuticals.

Key Nutraceuticals Examined

Saw Palmetto (Serenoa repens): Dr. Farris highlighted saw palmetto as a natural 5-alpha reductase (5-AR) inhibitor. A recent 16-week, double-blind, placebo-controlled study demonstrated a 29% reduction in hair shedding and a 5.17% increase in hair density, showcasing its effectiveness in treating androgenetic alopecia (AGA). However, saw palmetto was less effective than finasteride in a comparative study, though both were well-tolerated without significant side effects.

Pumpkin Seed Oil: Known for containing ∆-7 sterols, which inhibit 5-AR, pumpkin seed oil was shown to improve hair density in a randomized, double-blind study. Over 24 weeks, men using pumpkin seed oil saw a 40% increase in hair counts compared to a 10% increase in the control group, underscoring its potential as an effective, natural option.

Biotin: Despite its popularity, Dr. Farris emphasized that the scientific backing for biotin’s use in treating hair loss is limited. While biotin is essential for carboxylase enzyme activity, which supports hair health, significant benefits are primarily observed in individuals with biotin deficiencies due to factors like certain medications or malnutrition.

Multi-Ingredient Supplements and Efficacy

Dr. Farris also examined the rationale behind multi-ingredient supplements, which aim to target various underlying causes of hair loss, such as hormonal imbalances, stress, and nutritional deficiencies. One study featured in her lecture involved a 6-month, double-blind, placebo-controlled trial evaluating a professional-grade supplement containing marine collagen, vitamins, minerals, and botanicals. The results were promising: significant improvements in terminal and vellus hair counts (primary endpoint), demonstrating efficacy in increasing hair density, and enhanced hair diameter and positive self-assessments from participants (secondary endpoints), showing improved hair quality and reduced brittleness.

Holistic Considerations for Hair Health

Dr. Farris underscored the importance of viewing hair health through a comprehensive lens. Factors such as stress, aging, metabolism, and lifestyle all play critical roles in hair vitality. Nutraceuticals such as standardized curcumin and ashwagandha were discussed for their stress-adapting and anti-inflammatory properties. Curcumin, for example, is known to reduce inflammatory markers like CRP and boost the immune system, while ashwagandha has been shown to lower cortisol levels significantly, aiding in stress resilience.

Patient Perception and Adoption

Dr. Farris also shared some recent data on patient experiences, noting that 84.6% of subjects found nutraceutical supplements easier to integrate into their routines compared to topical treatments. Furthermore, 88.5% preferred taking natural supplements, and 73.1% were willing to recommend them to friends. This highlights the importance of patient preference in treatment adherence and the growing trend toward natural, multi-targeted approaches.

Conclusions and Clinical Implications

Dr. Farris concluded her talk with practical insights for dermatologists. While nutraceuticals are not a substitute for medical treatments, they provide a valuable adjunctive approach, especially for patients seeking natural options or who experience side effects with conventional therapies. Clinicians should remain informed about these options, their supporting evidence, and potential interactions, ensuring they can guide patients effectively.

This lecture reaffirmed that while nutraceuticals may not be a panacea for hair loss, they offer a promising, patient-friendly alternative or complementary solution. With continued research and clinical trials, these treatments have the potential to become an integral part of personalized hair loss management.

Dr. Doris Day: Nutraceuticals for Anti-Aging 

Dr. Doris Day, a clinical professor of dermatology at New York University Langone Health, contributed an insightful lecture to the conference titled “Nutraceuticals for Anti-Aging.” Her talk delved into the intersection of internal and external beauty, emphasizing how nutraceuticals can complement skincare for enhanced anti-aging effects. For those who missed the presentation, this article aims to share the talk’s main takeaways. 

Understanding Aging: Genetics and Epigenetics

Dr. Day underscored the difference between genetics and epigenetics in the context of aging. While genetics predetermine certain aspects of aging, epigenetic factors such as lifestyle, diet, and environment can significantly influence how these genetic predispositions manifest over time. The boundary between “inner” and “outer” beauty is blurring, with a growing focus on how diet and oral supplements contribute to skin health and overall aesthetics.

Reactive Oxygen Species (ROS) and Skin Health

One of the lecture’s focal points was the role of reactive oxygen species (ROS), which are unstable molecules that can damage cellular structures and exacerbate skin aging if left unchecked. Dr. Day emphasized the importance of antioxidants, both topical and oral, to neutralize these harmful molecules. However, she cautioned that the mechanisms of many antioxidants are not fully understood, necessitating judicious use by dermatologists.

Nutraceuticals for Anti-Aging

Curcuminoids (Curcumin): Known for its anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and chemopreventive properties, curcumin is widely used for its health benefits. Despite its low natural bioavailability, advancements such as lecithin-based delivery systems and nanoparticle formulations have enhanced its absorption. Dr. Day cited its safety and broad therapeutic index, supporting its inclusion in anti-aging regimens.

Genistein: A potent antioxidant and plant-derived isoflavone, genistein has demonstrated protective effects against UV-induced skin damage. Topical and oral applications have shown efficacy in combating photoinflammation, reducing UVB-induced wrinkling, and boosting skin elasticity. Dr. Day highlighted its potential as an anti-aging agent that also contributes to cancer prevention and neuroprotection.

Cucumis Melo Extract (SOD): Derived from a specific type of French melon, this superoxide dismutase (SOD) is encapsulated with a gliadin biopolymer for better intestinal absorption. SOD acts as a powerful antioxidant capable of neutralizing vast amounts of free radicals, thus bolstering the skin’s resilience against oxidative stress and inflammation.

Niacinamide (Vitamin B3): Dr. Day emphasized niacinamide’s role in enhancing cellular energy metabolism and DNA repair. Clinical studies have shown that oral nicotinamide reduces the risk of non-melanoma skin cancers, making it a dual-benefit supplement for skin health and cancer prevention.

Collagen Supplements and Skin Health

Collagen supplementation was another key focus. Dr. Day discussed the mechanism of hydrolyzed collagen type II, which supports skin elasticity, hydration, and dermal fibroblast activity. Clinical case studies have shown significant improvements in skin density, elasticity, and hydration after 90 days of collagen peptide supplementation.

Essential Points on Bioavailability and Safety

Dr. Day stressed the importance of understanding the bioavailability and safety of nutraceuticals. She highlighted issues like adulteration and the lack of robust clinical data for many supplements on the market, emphasizing that not all products deliver the promised efficacy. Dermatologists should ensure that any recommended supplement meets therapeutic dosage requirements and has reliable evidence to back its claims.

Consumer Trends in Nutraceuticals

The global wellness market is booming, valued at $1.5 trillion and growing annually by 5-10%. Dr. Day pointed out that 74% of adults take dietary supplements, driven by the desire for natural solutions that enhance longevity and skin health. However, consumers often prioritize personalization and natural ingredients over mere efficacy. The rise of functional foods and beverages, alongside supplements, further supports the idea that diet and skincare are no longer mutually exclusive.

Final Reflections

Dr. Day’s lecture concluded with a balanced perspective: While nutraceuticals hold promise for enhancing skin health and combating aging, dermatologists must approach them with evidence-based skepticism. The benefits of these products can be significant, but thorough patient education and careful selection are essential for optimizing outcomes.

Nutraceuticals provide an additional layer to traditional dermatology practices, bridging the gap between internal health and external beauty. As this field evolves, it is crucial for dermatologists to stay informed about the latest research, ensuring they can recommend supplements that truly benefit skin health and longevity. -additional reporting and photo by Eric Raible

Ramie Aly Fathy, MD

• Resident, PGY-3
• Department of Dermatology, Johns Hopkins University