About 8 percent of sunscreens available worldwide are likely to fall below their stated SPF level, according to research from What’s In My Jar.

One out of 12 sunscreens worldwide are likely overstating their sun protection factor, according to research from What’s In My Jar, a London-based AI-powered skincare startup.

Using machine learning, What’s In My Jar analyzed formulas of 1,205 sunscreen products in their global database to predict the likelihood that a sunscreen product would not be able to confirm its stated SPF if tested independently. About 8 percent of sunscreens available worldwide are likely to fall below their stated SPF level, the report found.

“Based on our data, 1 in 12 sunscreens available worldwide do not seem to contain sufficient concentrations of UV filters to provide their stated sun protection level. Of course, our results are by no means conclusive: the amount of UV filters used is only one factor that determines the products’ SPF, the formulation itself matters a lot. Still, there is only so much ‘extra’ SPF a formulator can achieve with smart formulation techniques relying, for example, on a single UV filter in a low concentration. Our algorithm flags cases like this as suspicious,” says Maria Semykoz, the founder and CEO of What’s In My Jar, in a news release.

“Consumers want to use light-weight, cosmetically elegant sunscreens. No one likes sunscreens that leave a chalky white cast or greasy feel. Unfortunately, to provide high and reliable sun protection, one needs to use relatively high concentrations of UV filters - and they are not perfectly transparent and can not magically blend into our skin without a trace. I think the quest for perfectly indivisible sunscreen pushed the industry too far towards prioritizing products’ sensory feel and cosmetic appeal over reliability of sun protection,” she continues. “The less UV filters a formula uses, the more cosmetically elegant the sunscreen will feel but, unfortunately, it also makes it less likely to provide a high level of sun protection,” she says.

“Both consumers and skincare brands need to take a step back. The UV filters we have in the cosmetic industry right now do not allow us to produce perfect weightless sunscreens, and both consumers and brands need to set realistic expectations for how cosmetically elegant a proper sunscreen can be,” says Semykoz.