The company plans to commercialize these retinoid ingredients in 2024.

Conagen is unveiling a new natural-sourced class of sustainable retinol derivative ingredients madevia  precision fermentation. 

“Conagen is ready to commercialize these retinoid ingredients in 2024,” says Yisheng Wu, PhD. VP of Flavors and Fragrances, at Conagen, in a news release.  

Conagen’s retinoids derivatives are created by covalently binding retinoids with another cosmetic active ingredient into a single molecule. The retinol is produced with a 100% renewable carbon source through the precision fermentation process. 

Through the fusion of retinol and a second complementary ingredient, the technology offers consumers functionalities that extend beyond wrinkle reduction and anti-aging benefits.

"This new development empowers cosmetic formulators to create products that excel in both performance and innovation, aligning with the ever-evolving demands of today's discerning consumers,” says Wu. “By providing enhanced stability, controlled release, and multifunctional capabilities, Conagen's retinoid derivatives redefine the possibilities within the cosmetic industry.”

 Depending on the selected partner for pipeline integration, these compounds introduce flexibility, enabling cosmetic formulators to incorporate a secondary function.

This enhanced stability of Conagen’s retinoids derivatives enables cosmetic products to ensure a consistent and extended release of retinol, resulting in long-lasting effects on the skin. Traditional retinol is known to cause skin irritation, such as redness, dryness, and peeling. Conagen’s retinol ingredients aid in the formulation of low-irritation retinol products. These ingredients are compatible with other compounds, such as squalene, bakuchiol, and pomegranate extract, maximizing delivery and effectiveness while minimizing potential off-target effects.

The retinol innovation originates from the unique high-yield carotenoid platform led by Wu. This platform has yielded numerous widely utilized carotenoid compounds, including beta-carotene and astaxanthin. By introducing additional steps in the metabolic pathway, Conagen can make retinol at high efficiency. This same platform holds the potential to generate various flavors, fragrances, and nutritional compounds derived from carotenoids.