Unregulated products may possibly contain dangerously high concentrations of hydroquinone and topical steroids

Despite the potential dangers of skin bleaching products, the global market for skin lighteners last year was estimated at $8.6 billion and  is projected to reach $12.3 billion by 2027.

“The cultural beliefs that promote the practice of skin bleaching date back centuries and deeply affect many of our patients with skin of color,” says Seemal R. Desai, MD, FAAD, clinical assistant professor of dermatology at the University of Texas Southwestern Medical Center, in a news release. “It’s going to take time to change these deeply-rooted cultural values and psychological associations with lighter skin tones; however, we want to educate patients about the dangers of skin bleaching strictly for the sake of achieving lighter skin and encourage them to talk with their dermatologist so that we can begin changing this dialogue.”

Dr. Desai warned of the dangers of skin bleaching to achieve a lighter complexion at the AAD VMX 2021.

While bleaching creams can be used safely under the direction of a board-certified dermatologist to treat pigmentary conditions like melasma, dermatologists are concerned about the use of these products to change the color of one’s complexion.

Because some skin bleaching products that aren’t regulated by the Food and Drug Administration (FDA) make their way to the U.S. from other countries and are sold online, these unregulated products may possibly contain dangerously high concentrations of hydroquinone and topical steroids. The combination of these two medications stops the production of melanin in the skin — the pigment produced by cells that give skin its color.

Dr. Desai warns that these unregulated products can have devastating consequences. He explains that skin rashes, steroid-induced acne and subsequent scarring, as well as thinning skin and skin ulcers (open round sores) have been linked to the use of skin bleaching products that consumers aren’t purchasing in U.S. drugstores, but rather from unknown sources online.

“The bottom line is that skin bleaching products that consumers are purchasing online and overseas may not be safe,” says Dr. Desai.  “In some cases, ingredients aren’t listed on the package, which should be a big warning sign to stay away. Although rare, there have been reports of mercury and arsenic in skin bleaching products.”

In some cases, Dr. Desai says that people using skin bleaching products develop a condition called exogenous ochronosis — a rare but permanent side effect where blue and purple pigmentation appears after long-term use of bleaching creams that contain hydroquinone. 

“Many people with skin of color will go to great lengths and incur great costs to change their skin tone,” says Dr. Desai. “It’s time to stop the spread of poisonous information that perpetuates beliefs that lighter skin equals more beautiful skin whether it’s through product marketing or social media and begin to empower consumers to feel beautiful and comfortable in their own natural skin color.”