PracticalDermatology

When it comes to sourcing for new chemical entities with biological action, marine-based ingredients--which have been used for centuries in beauty and other medicinal substances--have benefitted from a new generation of high-tech cosmetics containing ingredients sourced from the ocean.

Commonly used in facial cosmetics, marine-based ingredients can present a diverse range of compounds that promote biological activity and other restorative and protective properties. Many of these substances have been found to promote anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antiallergic, and other beneficial cosmetic activities.

“The reality is that these products do have benefits if they have science behind them,” said Michael Gold, MD, owner of Gold Skin Care Center in Nashville, in a presentation at the 2023 Science of Skincare Summit in Austin, TX. “If they have science behind it, it’s important to bring them to [our colleagues] so that we can help educate our patients.”

Kelp and Algae

Dr. Gold’s talk focused primarily on a product utilizing a species of giant sea kelp (sometimes called bladder kelp), Macrocystis pyrifera, the genus of which contains the largest of all the phaeophyceae (or brown algae) and has pneumatocysts at the base of its blades. When fermented and added to a formulation of other ingredients, it has been shown in some preclinical evaluations to have an association with anti-inflammation and anti-aging activities.

In one study, a patient population (n=33) of Chinese women received treatment with the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing cream twice daily for two weeks. At two weeks, enhanced healing via decreased transepidermal water loss was reported in the group treated with the Macrocystis pyrifera-containing cream.

In another study looking at erythema inhibition and reduction, Balsam of Peru-induced erythema was treated with the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment alone (vs. untreated), showing a reduction in erythema over time compared with the untreated areas. The Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing cream was also associated with reduction in erythema over time that is comparable to that of the hydrocortisone, the current gold standard.

A third study looked at twice-daily treatment on facial skin in 53 women (aged 42-75) using the Macrocystis pyrifera ferment-containing cream, with evaluation at baseline, 2,4,8 and 12 weeks. According to the results, improvement was shown as early as two weeks, while continuing to improve throughout the 12-week study period, including improvements in fine lines in the forehead and crow’s feet, as well as improved glabellar wrinkles, crow’s feet wrinkles, the appearance of pores, and in smoothness.

“In clinical studies on the stratum corneum and decreased transepidermal water loss, reflecting healing by enhancing barrier strength and recovery,” Dr. Gold noted. “In clinical studies measuring visible anti-inflammatory activity, we know that Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and products containing the ferment significantly decreased erythema.”

He added: “We also know that it definitely improves signs of skin aging, indicating a rejuvenation effect that these products have.”

This article was based on a presentation given by Dr. Michael Gold, owner of Gold Skin Care Center and the Tennessee Clinical Research Center in Nashville, at the 2023 Science of Skincare Summit in Austin, TX. Dr. Gold is also currently serves as Adjunct Assistant Professor at the Meharry Medical College in Nashville and is a visiting professor of dermatology at Fudan University (Shanghai Medical University) in Shanghai, as well as a visiting professor of plastic surgery at several hospitals located throughout China.

Disclosure: Dr. Gold reports being a consultant to many pharmaceutical, cosmeceutical, laser, and energy-based device companies, and has performed research and spoken on behalf of numerous pharmaceutical and medical device companies, including La Mer. The studies presented received funding from La Mer.