The Inside Scoop on Cosmeceuticals: From Top to Bottom
Cosmeceuticals are hot and they seem to get hotter by the moment.
The actual cosmeceutical category—named to represent a hybrid cosmetic and pharmaceutical product—didn’t really even exist until the 1980s, and now the global market is set to reach $61 billion by 2020, according to a report by Research and Markets.
Skincare is the largest category in the sector, followed by hair care, the report states.
There’s an ever-increasing number of products and actives out there, so Practical Dermatology® reached out to top doctors to see what they recommend and why.
Heliocare
Category: Sun protection supplement
Active Ingredient: Extract of Polypodium leucotomos
“It is the one thing that is essential to my patients with photosensitivity/polymorphous light eruption (PMLE). Without it, I don’t know what they would do. It also is helpful for kids who are out in the sun a bit and for people on vacations where they will be unable to reapply sunscreen effectively.”
Joel Schlessinger, MD, FAAD, FAACS
Board-certified Dermatologist and Cosmetic Surgeon
Chief Editor, Cosmetic Surgery, Practical Dermatology® Magazine
President, LovelySkin.com
RESTORSEA PRO skin care
Category: Antiaging
Active Ingredient: Aquabeautine XL (INCI: Hydrolyzed Roe)
“Every patient using this product (which has enzyme from salmon roe) says their skin is softer, brighter, and less pigmented. Their complexion is more even and they see less pores. What’s great about this product is that it is in a class of its own, it functions to brighten, but I find this is mainly from enzymatic activity, which is gentle. Any other skin care complements Restorsea PRO. When it was first introduced, I thought where does this fit in, but it has no competitor! It is synergistic and additive. My patients love the foaming cleanser, eye serum, and liquid gold face oil. These all complement laser procedures, microneedling, fillers, and facials/peels etc.”
Jason Emer, MD
Cosmetic and Laser Dermatologist
The Roxbury Institute
Beverly Hills, CA
TNS Essential Serum, HA-5 by Skinmedica
Category: Antiaging
Active Ingredient/s: TNS complex, APS
corrective complex; Hylauronic acid
“It’s a tie between TNS essential serum and HA-5 by Skinmedica. I have been personally using TNS for more than 15 years and have taken my own serial before and afters. My favorite ingredient in cosmeceuticals is hyaluronic acid.”
Vic A Narurkar, MD, FAAD
Founder, Bay Area Laser Institute
San Francisco
Neocutis Line
Category: Antiaging
Active Ingredient: PSP protein blend including human growth factors, interleukins and cytokines
“We like the Neocutis cosmeceuticals as the growth factor ingredient works very nicely.”
Bruce Katz, M.D
Director
Juva Skin & Laser Center
New York City
Alastin Skin Nectar, Alastin Restorative Skin Complex
Category: Pre- and post-procedure/maintenance
Active Ingredient/s: TriHex Technology
“Skin aging is the result of increased breakdown of collagen and elastin combined with a decrease in the ability of the body to repair itself. A good skin regimen is going to address both of these issues. I like Alastin Skin Nectar and Alastin Restorative Skin Complex, both of which contain a patent-pending technology called TriHex, which has been shown to enhance extracellular matrix recycling. Think of it as clearing out damaged collagen and elastin to create an optimal environment for natural skin regeneration through the production of healthy collagen and elastin. Alastin Skin Nectar is anhydrous, which makes it ideal for immediate post-procedure application, as it doesn’t cause any stinging or burning. I recommend patients use the Skin Nectar for two to six weeks prior to treatments such as laser resurfacing, chemical peels, and energy-based rejuvenation procedures. I typically continue the Skin Nectar for a few weeks post procedure before changing the patient to Alastin Restorative Skin Complex for maintenance. Extracellular matrix optimization is truly a new paradigm in the approach to skin care and skin wellness. “
Vivian Bucay, MD
BUCAY Center for Dermatology and Aesthetics
San Antonio, TX
Sisely Black Rose Cream Mask, Sisely
Eye Contour Mask
Category: Skincare
Active Ingredient/s: Black rose, padina pavonica, and alkekengi calyx extracts; Ginkgo biloba, Arnica, Horse Chestnut, Linden blossom
“I have been traveling a ton and Sisely Black Rose Cream Mask and Sisely Eye Contour Mask keep me from looking dehydrated and shriveled up. Both are instant treatments, which should be applied for 10 minutes followed by gentle removal of excess cream. I love them and often use them overnight. Both hydrate the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles beautifully. I also love them before make-up application. “
Michelle F. Henry, MD
Dermatologist
Laser & Skin Surgery Center of New York
New York City
Product: DefenAge
Category: Antiaging
Active Ingredient: Repair Defensins, a patent-pending
peptide complex
“DefenAge stands out in the saturated growth of the anti-aging industry due to its focus on molecular specificity as the science behind the skincare is to stimulate one locus of stem cells. These stem cell are found in the hair follicles. One particular stem cell locus called LGR6+, is responsible for renewal of skin cells lost to trauma and replacement of dead cells as well as being responsible for generating the entire epidermal cell line during embryonic life. Aging cells may have reduced function and contain mutations. Other growth factors stimulate these ‘tired cells’.
DefenAge products contain synthetic copies of the body’s natural defensins, which are secreted by neutrophils after trauma to turn on this stem cell locus to create new cells. These stem cells lay dormant until they are stimulated, thus are “new” and don’t carry mutations or other limitations of function that “tired cells” have. In other words, these defensis peptides trigger the skin’s own repair mechanism, ‘waking-up’ the skin and making appear as it did when we were younger. The products’ claim is that you will see a change in your skin’s dullness, wrinkling, and pigmentation. We have found this to be true in most of our patients, and are currently working on a placebo-controlled, double-blind study to prove this.”
Amy Forman Taub, MD
Medical Director, Founder
Advanced Dermatology/skinfo
Lincolnshire, IL
LaseResults Line
Category: Skincare/antiaging
Active Ingredients: A blend of antioxidants, exfoliators, AHAs, and PHAs formulated in a vehicle that enhances penetration and activity.
“I have consulted for so many cosmetic companies over the years, and nobody was doing it exactly the way I wanted to do it. Many companies had offerings that included some of the technologies I liked, but none combined them in the way I desired for my laser pateints. So, if you want something done… and with the help of my fantastic team, I did it my way. This was how LaseResults was born. The line includes moisturizers, cleansers, serums, peels, sunblocks, and more. The key is how all the ingredients synergize with one another-thus our trademarked slogan … ‘A Symphony of ingredients, working in Concert.’ It really is all about the combination of ingredients and how they work together.”
Eric F. Bernstein, MD, MSE
Director
Main Line Center for Laser Surgery
Ardmore, PA
NeoStrata Foaming Glycolic Wash
Category: Skincare
Active Ingredients: Alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid,
lactobionic acid
“I like exfoliating washes because they enhance the penetration of the next product that you layer on. The Neostrata wash is unique because it has a traditional alpha-hydroxy acid, glycolic acid, with proven effects on anti-aging, and a new generation polyhydroxy acid, lactobionic acid, which has similar effects but without the potential irritation. So you get the additive bonus of two potent ingredients to reveal radiant and smoother, hydrated skin, with less potential for redness and flakiness.” n
Jessie Cheung, MD
Director
Jessie Cheung MD Dermatology & Laser Center
Willowbrook, IL
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