PracticalDermatology

Presenting at the Cosmetic Surgery Forum (CSF) in Las Vegas in December, Jeannette Graf, MD, discussed trends with cosmeceuticals and skincare ingredients on the market now.

Dr. Graf said advances in the ability to refine oils have led to a huge category of therapeutic options targeting a myriad of skincare needs and conditions. With oils available for every skin type, including oily complexions, they are now versatile for both evening and morning usage, she explained. The newest oils are pure and non-comedogenic, and the face oils can provide long-lasting hydrating benefits, as well as cleansing, antioxidant, and anti-aging benefits.

Other cosmeceutical trends, Dr. Graf discussed, include:

• Hydrating toners, mists, cleansing waters, and soothing waters.
• Micellar cleansers, which contain “micelles” that consist of a hydrophilic outer layer and hydrophobic inner layer in an aqueous suspension, and require no rinsing.
• Color cosmetics that mix silicone-based make-up with water-based primers to keep skin hydrated under oilbased make-up.
• Probiotics that help to restore the balance of the natural microflora of the skin, like lactobacillus ferment.
• East Indian Sandalwood, which has antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory benefits.
• Powder spray deodorant, a new application of deodorant entering the market, that is formulated to go on dry and be less irritating.
• Virgin Coconut oil — solid at room temperature, it’s an excellent moisturizer that melts to body temperature.
• Vitamin D3, which when used in skin care regulates antimicrobial function in skin and is essential for wound healing.

Jeanine Downie, MD also presented at CSF with a focus on nutraceuticals. She spoke primarily about Imedeen Marine Complex and Viviscal Pro.

Dr. Downie described Imedeen, which is formulated with non-endangered fish and soy fiber products, as a breakthrough anti-aging, anti-wrinkle medicine. “The neutraceutical Imadeen has been clinically proven to decrease fine lines and wrinkles. It’s been in Europe for years and this is new technology and I want people to embrace it and think of it as another way of improving their face and moving their best face forward” she offered.

Viviscal Pro is also made with a marine protein, and promotes hair growth, including eyelashes in some cases. “Viviscal is also something that’s been clinically tested and proven to increase the hair diameter and increase the hair follicle count and make your hair thicker and longer,” said Dr. Downie, adding that is exciting technology because there aren’t a lot of options to improve the hair.

DR. GRAF’S FAVORITE COSMECEUTICALS

• Retinol
• Glytone Fading Lotion
• Glytone Anti-aging Serum
• Avène XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cleansing Oil, XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Cream and XeraCalm A.D Lipid-Replenishing Balm
• Benzac Intensive Spot Treatment
• Elta MD UV Clear SPF 46
• Avène Thermal Spring Water
• Epionce Intensive Nourishing Cream
• Colorscience Mineral Make-up, especially the combination of Mineral Colorscience Bronzing Primer SPF 20 and Sunforgettable SPF 50 with retractable brush.
• Oxygenetix
• Aquaphor