Estée Lauder Companies Anti-Aging Research On Skin Demonstrates Efficacy of Actives and Novel Technologies in Skin Research


The Estée Lauder Companies Research & Development (R&D) presented research focused on new findings in anti-aging skin research at the 2018 American Academy of Dermatology Annual Meeting in San Diego.

The following reserach was presented at poster presentations at the AAD meeting:

Anti-Aging Effects of Retinoid Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate on Skin Models
Tretinoin, also known as all-trans retinoic acid (ATRA), is well-known for its anti-aging effects on skin; however, issues such as skin irritation and photochemical instability have hindered the use of ATRA in cosmetic products. Therefore, it is of interest to identify new compounds that offer the cosmetic benefits of Tretinoin. Typically, milder retinoid derivatives are used, which must first be metabolized to other forms by several enzymatic steps in the skin, which reduces their efficacy. Hydroxypinacolone retinoate (HPR), a cosmetic grade ester of ATRA, is unique in that it processes innate retinoic acid activity, and thus does not need to undergo metabolic breakdown to achieve skin benefits. It has been demonstrated to be more stable and cause less skin irritation than ATRA. Additionally, these compounds were tested for their anti-aging properties, as measured by natural collagen levels on skin. The results suggest that HPR is an effective cosmetic alternative to ATRA and other less effective retinoids in improving the appearance of aging skin without the irritation.

Caffeine Enhances Epidermal Hydration by Increasing the Transepithelial Electric Potential and Electro-osmosis
Naturally occurring electric fields on the surface of the skin have been demonstrated to influence skin regeneration and repair. The generation of the electric field is attributed to the transport of ions across high-resistance tight junctions of epithelia in a polarized fashion, leading to an electrical potential difference across the skin termed the ‘skin battery’. This polarized ion flux creates a transepithelial electrical potential (TEEP). Cyclic adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) has been shown to increase TEEP in secretory epithelia and regulate the epithelial sodium channel (ENaC) that mediates sodium (Na+) influx. We sought to investigate whether caffeine, which is known to indirectly stabilize cAMP, increases TEEP of skin by altering Na+ flux, consequently enhancing electro-osmosis. Our results demonstrate that there is a direct correlation between TEEP and epidermal water content. Additionally, caffeine increases TEEP leading to an increase in epidermal hydration via electro-osmosis.

These studies demonstrate The Estée Lauder Companies R&D’s leading role in understanding biological processes that influence skin aging and identifying future technologies to mitigate its appearance.

“The Estée Lauder Companies R&D consistently brings new approaches to the industry. As a leader in both basic skin science and active ingredient research, The Estée Lauder Companies R&D continues to push the boundaries of both our understanding of and our ability to improve skin,” said Tom Mammone, PhD, Vice President, Skin Physiology and Pharmacology, Research & Development, The Estée Lauder Companies. “Our rich heritage of identifying promising concept ingredients and applying new insights from the lab to products that deliver measurable benefits continues to be a winning strategy.”

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