The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. presented a range of novel preclinical and clinical findings at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology in Singapore.

Regular use of moisturizer can mitigate skin aging, according to research presented by The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. at the 25th World Congress of Dermatology in Singapore. 

In an evaluator-blinded, randomized, 6-month longitudinal study of 160 women, aged 35-65, with dry skin, mild to moderate crow's feet wrinkles, and a low frequency of skin care regimen, regular application of a potent moisturizer treated skin dryness and improved the dry skin stratum corneum cohesion to reduce the appearance of facial aging, when compared to low-frequency moisturizer use.

In a related study, Estée Lauder researchers found that a facial cream containing Macrocystis pyrifera ferment and other ingredients improved skin barrier recovery and resilience, mitigated erythema and irritation, and demonstrated a reduction in hallmark signs of aging skin in in vivo experiments in U.S.- and Asia-based populations.

Histological assessment of ex vivo human skin explants suggested that topical application enhanced key extracellular matrix proteins and hyaluronic acid, corroborating in vivo results, the researchers report.

Findings suggest the facial cream provides an effective treatment for improving barrier integrity and strength as well as signs of aging parameters and skin appearance with regular daily use,  says Jaime Emmetsberger, PhD, La Mer's Max Huber Research Labs Lead Scientist, in a news release.

Another presentation by Estee Lauder found that sirtuins (SIRTs) may be instrumental in regulating the mechanobiology of the skin and promoting youthful skin properties and function.

The new findings build on the team's previous results that showed SIRT activity in skin cells is linked to environmental stressors, including UV and ozone.

Treatment with SIRT 1, 2, 3, and 6 activators helped to rebuild protein structure and increased collagen production in mature skin cells, while the combination of SIRT 1 and 3 activators increased elastin and fibrillin production in ex vivo skin samples.  Activation of SIRT2 also increased skin cell area – a hallmark feature typical of younger skin cells, the researchers report.

Taken together, all four activators exerted different effects to preserve the mechanical properties of young skin.

In another study, researchers used 3D skin models to study the anti-glycation properties of six compounds to determine their capacities to reduce AGE auto-fluorescence.

The compounds were tested topically in a dose-response study over seven days, revealing that GlcNAc, DE, vitamin C and E were most effective in demonstrating a significant reduction of AGE auto-fluorescence compared to skin models treated with glycation agent methylglyoxal alone.

These results reveal that the anti-glycation capacity of compounds used in skin care formulations may be associated with the reduced appearance of skin sallowness, they concluded.

A topical cosmetic serum with a targeted, triple-action approach provided anti-aging benefits equal to a single laser treatment, according to a study presented by Kristine Schmalenberg, PhD, Executive Director, Clinical Sciences at Estee Lauder.

In the 16-week study of 42 women with moderate facial photodamage, treatment with the cosmetic topical product achieved a statistically significant improvement in all measured parameters compared to a single laser treatment, thereby showing parity on those parameters.

The topical product improved the appearance of global lines, wrinkles, and hyperpigmentation, as well as skin tone evenness, texture, smoothness, and firmness – suggesting efficacy in combatting visible signs of skin aging.